There's so much I could write about Bali, but pictures would work better to convey much of what we saw. Statues towered over junctions, gateways reached up to the sky. Art hid in little corners surrounded by every shade of green. We had only two proper days to explore Bali, so there was so much we did not visit, including its magnificent temples.And because there's so much to say that is random and unrelated, I'll end my travelogue with a little bit about the quirkiness of Bali. Shop signs always make me smile, everywhere in the world. I wrote earlier about signs carved in stone. Here's another. Isn't it wonderfully anachronistic? How did the carver feel making this?At a toilet, we saw this deliberately funny sign.There was one notice that we didn't photograph, unfortunately. It was on a blackboard outside a restaurant in Ubud. It said: 'We serve food for vegetarians, … [Read more...]
A Balinese Home
It was only after the visit to the coffee plantation that our cycling tour actually began. There was supposed to be a quick stop at Kintamani to see the volcano, but our guide Nyoman learned that there was too much traffic en route, so we skipped that and went straight to the place where we were to start cycling.Nyoman, by the way, is a traditional name for the third child in the family. The first child is called Wayan, the second child is called Made (Maa-day), the third is called Nyoman and the fourth is called Ketut. This name is independent of the gender of the child. If it is a boy, the name is preceded by 'I'. If it is a girl, the name becomes 'Ni Wayan', 'Ni Made', etc.When you don't know the naming system, it's quite amusing to see the name of, for instance, the taxi driver who is coming to pick you up. It says 'I Made <name>', and when you read that in English … [Read more...]
Indonesian Coffee Plantation
Have you heard of Luwak coffee? I had heard of it before visiting Bali, but hadn't yet made the connection between two.Luwak coffee is the most expensive coffee in the world and is euphemistically described as 'part-digested'. Honey is pre-digested too, isn't it, so why should coffee be so different? I won't get into the details here, but you can read about it on Wikipedia, if you're curious. Let's just say that the process of making it, plus how much it cost, prevented me from tasting it. Additionally, with such a huge variety of coffees to taste, I honestly did not want to try yet another!Visiting a coffee plantation is lovely because they allow you a free taste of an array of coffees - mangosteen, turmeric, lemongrass ... The coffee you have to pay for, though, is Luwak. The coffee was yummy, but of course, stories always excite me more. It was at the … [Read more...]
Cycling Tour
I was nervous about doing a cycling tour. Everyone we spoke to, from hotel receptionists to travel agents, said that it would be 'mostly downhill'. To me, that was a euphemistic way of saying there would be some rough uphill stretches. I don't cycle regularly. Riding 25 km all of a sudden? I wasn't sure if I was up to it.But the cycling tour turned out to be my top experience in Bali.Sure, there were parts when I fell back, particularly when we went off the main road and onto little mud tracks. I've never ridden a geared bike before, and I certainly hadn't ever ridden a bike that picks up speed so fast. In the beginning, even on the tar road, a voice in my head screamed, Too fast, too fast, too fast. And used as I am to riding my Activa, I was afraid of skidding, afraid of wet mud ... and thrilled to be riding through it all.I'll write about the cycling tour in … [Read more...]
Shopping in Bali
Sure, shopping is fun in Bali. When we spoke about our top experiences there, shopping featured in the top three of many.Here's a sample of how it works."It's a good sarong - 3 metres, Batik print on both sides." "How much?" "Very good print, it--" "How much?" "400,000." (Quick calculations. How much is that? 2,000 rupees!? No way I'm paying that much!) "No, thank you." (Walk away.) "Okay, how much you give? Ma'am! How much you give?" (What I'm willing to give is too little to even start bargaining, so I shake my head.) "Okay! I give for 300,000. Okay 200,000. Okay, 150,000?" (This is strange. Without saying anything, it's suddenly less than half the original price.) "150,000 still too much." "How much you give? If you don't say how much you give, I don't know!" "40,000." "Aw. 40 too little. 100,000." "40,000." "Okay, 60,000." "No 40,000." "What is final … [Read more...]
Monkey Forest, Ubud
I'm an Indian tourist. Monkeys aren't new to me. We see them along railway lines, on walls, trying to get into houses ... I've written about Matheran too, where a monkey came into the room, picked up a packet of milk powder, and then calmly looked around, trying to figure out what else to take.So, no, monkeys are not an exotic species that I would go and see. I am not tempted by the prospect of feeding monkeys sweet potatoes or corn or bananas. I don't want a video of a monkey climbing all over me. In fact, I don't want a monkey climbing all over me. Period.For some of us in the group, the signboard at the entrance itself was a deterrent. I'm not quoting, but here's the gist of it. If a monkey jumps on you, do not panic. Do not carry a paper bag or plastic bag into the forest. If a monkey grabs your bag, let go. Don't make eye-contact with the monkeys.The list went … [Read more...]
Taxis in Bali
When you read about the public transport system in Bali, you learn about bemos that are too crowded to use and Bluebird taxis that are reliable and reputable. I still don't know what a bemo is. We saw bus stops that seemed impossibly high, and I never saw a bus stopping at any of them. Taxis are often awkward too if you don't know how much something ought to cost. You need to persuade the driver to go by meter, and then you still end up paying more than you would if you have a local SIM and download an app like Grab or Gojek. And coming from a city like Pune, Gojek bikes are the best!In any case, when you begin to bargain (unavoidable in Bali), the prices are confusing. One INR is equivalent to about 200 IDR, so we're all millionaires in Indonesia. Taxi ride? 40,000 IDR. Cycle tour? 500,000 IDR Extra bed in your hotel room? 150,000 IDRIt takes a while to figure things … [Read more...]
Back from Bali
Today, I finally finished writing my travelogue, which is over 50 pages long. I needed to get that done quickly before I forgot all the details! And now, I can leisurely write my blog, bit by bit, with one exciting detail after another.We were a group of ten dancers, and we were put up at Alam Puri, a resort that lives up to its name. 'Alam' means 'nature' or 'natural', and 'puri' is a castle. Alam Puri was really like a castle in the midst of nature!Yet, I would say that that's true of almost everything we saw in Bali - royalty and nature. The smallest little door in the middle of nowhere is ornately carved. And all around it is greenery that takes your breath away.I'll begin my series of travel articles with an offering, and the story behind it. Do you see the cigarette in the picture? We heard two stories about why the cigarette is there.Story 1 - When you make … [Read more...]