It's a duty, I know. It isn't anything to be proud of. I should vote and I did. But hats off to those who took their duty seriously enough to come to Pune from places like Delhi just to vote. I just had to go down the road. And those who did not bother to go down the road, why don't you? It's even simpler now. Check online, find your centre. Go and vote. And you've done your duty. What say? … [Read more...]
Incredible Bus Journeys
Yes, I have travel woes. Often. I faced a bird-hit in Ahmedabad. A light-bulb shattering in my hair on a train journey. Floods in Bengal and trouble in Bihar caused a train-detour of twelve hours. Aircraft crew went on strike to watch a football match. And that's just scratching the surface.Of late, thanks to an irritating back-ache, I've taken to wearing a belt while travelling. Today, when the lock of the bus-door gave way, I used the belt in the most innovative way possible. … [Read more...]
Indian Coffee House
smoke swirlscoffee tastes peculiari drink it anyway, along with something with mustard mainly for the mustard, rather than for the 'something'people stick political posters over the board that says 'SMOKING IS A PUNISHABLE OFFENCE' people ask for ash-trays and get them or they don't ask for ash-trays and they tip ash on the floor, looked on indulgently by waiterstwo old men watch the people around them, silent in the midst of the noiseand we chatter on about our writing and our dreams … [Read more...]
Trams in Kolkata
Yes, I've written about trams before, in a post with the same name as this. But how could I go to Kolkata again and not create some more tram memories?My grandmother often told me about how her father always gave her the fare for first class tram tickets to college and back. Like so many young people, she took a second class ride and used the money she saved to buy little things that young people want but cannot afford.Now, travelling by tram to work or college is absurd. It takes at least twice as long to commute by tram than by any of the other available options, so really, the tram is just something you experience, rather than something you use.My flat-mate in Kolkata and I had once spoken about how these anachronistic trams could be retained without much loss to the city. "They should make a moving cafe and sell it as an experience for tourists," my flat-mate suggested. I … [Read more...]
Varsha and the Kerosene Stove
"So, Mamma, there's no geyser in this place and they've given me a kerosene stove to heat water. What to do?" "Hmm. Okay. What kind of stove is it?" "Mm?" "Does it have a pump?" "No." "Good. Okay. There's one cylindrical thing that's loose. Pull it off. Okay? Now there should be another cylindrical thing with holes. Leave that. There should be a knob on the side that gets the wicks up. Turn it. Did the wicks come? No? Okay. Take off the next cylindrical thing with holes. Yes, yes, there is another cylindrical thing with holes inside. Now turn the knob. Did the wicks come up? Good. Now light all the wicks." "No, wait. Where do I put the kerosene?" "Slosh it around. Check that it has kerosene in it. It doesn't? Okay. So the base is like a dabba. Open it. The kerosene goes there. Then turn the knob. Light the wicks."Attempt #1"Mamma! The wicks are just a millimetre high and refuse to … [Read more...]
Vierge Noire
The Vierge Noire - the Black Virgin - how little I know of her, but how enthralling it is!When I visited Chambéry for the first time in 2004, I am sure we visited the chapel with the Vierge Noire, a black statue of the Virgin Mary, but then, I did not quite understand its import. I had no idea about the significance of a black Vierge (Virgin/Madonna), nor about the complexity involved in keeping the statue of the Vierge Noire underground, with a golden Virgin dominating the chapel and even a wooden statue of Jesus and Mary above the Vierge Noire.Yet, legend says that it was the Vierge Noire who protected the people of the region.Visiting the same chapel again eight years later, I was more sensitive to the ideas that govern a black depiction of Mary. More importantly, I was with someone who drew these ideas to my attention. There are Vierges Noires all over France and they are … [Read more...]
A Conversation in Paris
A few years ago, I was alone at Paris airport. Shortly after I landed, I went to use the washroom. Sitting on a wheelchair was an old, old lady with wrinkles all over her face.As I stood there, managing my hand-luggage, coat and all the other hundreds of miscellaneous things I was carrying, she dropped her face in her hands. I looked at her uncomfortably. I did not know if I spoke a language she knew. I did not know whether she was crying. I did not know whether I was expected to do anything, whether it would be intrusive.Thankfully, another old lady emerged from a washroom cubicle just then and came quickly to the lady in the wheelchair."What happened?" she asked, a little worried. "What is the matter?"The lady in the wheelchair looked up. I remember the tears glistening in her eyes, but I could not help eavesdropping on the conversation. "I can't believe it," she said.The … [Read more...]
Wild Dog Hunt
No one will ever believe that it's not very easy to see wild dogs in the jungle if you spot them three times during the course of the same safari.At first, we saw five. Then we heard wild fowl crying out to one another - alarmed that the dogs were nearby. We then saw another dog. How domestic it looked, standing there, ears cocked. The only thing missing was the wagging tail.And then, returning by the main road, I saw something white being dragged into the jungle, away from the road. That 'something white' was the belly of a spotted deer.Yes, we watched the dogs tearing the deer to pieces and eating it. We heard them whining to the others, calling out to the entire pack to share the meal. We watched the dogs eat violently, aggressively. I was disturbed, yes, but I could watch. I was able to watch and think, "Well, that's the law of the jungle." I was surprised at how they shared … [Read more...]
Tigress
We did see a tigress on our very first safari at Tadoba this time around.When I went to Ranthambhor, as part of a school excursion, we were divided into ten groups. Nine groups saw a tiger. Mine didn't.Then I went to Kanha. Three safaris there - and I didn't see a tiger.Then, Nagarhole. Three safaris there - and I didn't see a tiger.Then, Tadoba. After the first two safaris, when I didn't see a tiger, I had a conversation with my sister. "I don't know why people are so obsessed with tigers, really. Of course, I want to see one too, but the forest itself is so beautiful!" "And every animal is a joy to see!" "And the unpredictability of the jungle is in itself fascinating!" "And the trees, the light ..."And then we saw the tiger.I've seen a tiger in the wild three times. I had tears in my eyes each time.Tyger, tyger burning bright In the forests of the night What immortal … [Read more...]
Back from the Wild – Again
Green forests. Dense.Tall grass. Just a few metres away, a tiger could be hiding and we wouldn't even know. Anticipation is thrilling.Spider webs glinting in the sunshine. A huge black spider poised on her web eats a grasshopper.The black ibis with its red hood and impressive beak pecks away in the grass.Sambhar - first the doe, then the stag - cross the road in front of us. They pause in the middle of the road to look at us. The way we go look at the animals, maybe they thought they'd step out today and look at humans.A yellow oriole flies above us, below the screeching green parakeets.The chestnut-headed bee-eater, flies and lands, flies and lands. In Marathi, they call it a 'crazy parrot' because of its peculiar habit of flying so briefly and perching again, time and time again. It doesn't seem to know what it wants.A crocodile, still as a log, floats in the water.An … [Read more...]