On the 15th of June 2006, I validated my second Eurail pass, officially valid for fifteen days. Maybe the official at the station was being nice; maybe he could not count. He marked the end date as the 30th of June, giving me 16 days of free travel.Building up to my departure from Grenoble, we did many, many things. I visited museums and churches. We played children's games like 'Duck-Duck-Goose'. I took a ride in an 'egg' - the ropeway up to the Bastille. My sister was leaving Grenoble, perhaps never to return, so we filled our days with things she wanted to remember. And then, I left Grenoble for Lyon so she could say her last goodbyes alone.Lyon is a place to spend a lot of time or none at all. Around the station, there are business hotels. Reach Lyon, and you get the impression that it is a no-nonsense, commercial place. I'm an unabashed people-watcher, and I felt even the way … [Read more...]
Cet espace …
"Yuk, what is that disgusting smell?" I asked. My sister chuckled and pointed to a board - "Ici, je fais ce que je veux" - "Here, I do what I want", accompanied by the picture of a dog.I found that lovely. Not only were there designated zones where dogs could do "whatever they want", there were cute little signs saying so, all over the city.The next day, I took a deep breath, ignored passing stares, and took a photograph of the board. I went around Grenoble taking photos of all the dog boards that I could find, to the amusement (and sometimes wrinkled-nose disgust) of people passing by. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost all my dog photos from Grenoble. So much for my nose-holding, stench-standing commitment to taking photographs.I found two that I took in Annecy, though - here they are! … [Read more...]
Musée Dauphinois
"My parents loved the Musée Dauphinois," a friend told me. "It was the best one of all."Intrigued, I decided to go. As usual, I had nothing to lose - the museum was free for those under 25. It was farther than I expected, not being a fan of climbing the Bastille alone, but I did reach, eventually."The ground floor was - um - uninteresting, to say the least," I've written in my diary. The museums I had seen before, right there in Isère, were much better. All the Musée Dauphinois had was general information about the history of humankind, without even the audio guide that was available at the Musée de l'Ancien Évêché, a museum I quite enjoyed. What that meant was that I had gone all the way there, climbing up towards the Bastille, to see sharpened stones.The first floor was not much better. I could not understand what had earned such high praise - until I got to the second … [Read more...]
Isère
The river Isère gives a region around the Rhône-Alpes its name. Left to my own devices for a long time, I wandered around, exploring Grenoble and the region around it.Grenoble's Bastille was deliciously confusing. I had wonderful, detailed ideas about the history of the Bastille and the storming of the Bastille and all of that, accompanied by utter cluelessness of the geography of France and where these stirring events really occurred. When I got to Grenoble, everyone was talking about 'climbing the Bastille' and 'going to the Bastille'. There was even a ropeway up to the Bastille for those who could not go up on foot. Later discovered that the ropeway is almost more famous than the Bastille itself. Grenoble's Bastille is an old fortress with a spectacular view, but without the history I had superimposed on it.To phrase it like that it to put it down, though. The climb up to the … [Read more...]
Seshan/XB
Nisha had a 'Carte 12-25', which entitled her to ridiculously cheap tickets on trains in France. When she went to buy tickets from Paris to Grenoble, she produced her card and booked a ticket for her sister and herself. Instead of asking for my name (bound to be a complicated Indian name, of course), the gentleman decided to call me XB. I feel like the distant cousin of a pencil. We reached Grenoble and began to practise for one of the many performances we did in France. We were to perform in a place called Gap, a name that I did not quite associate with France.When we met the person who organised the performance, I realised something that continues to haunt me even now. As long as I'm eavesdropping on someone else's conversation, as long as I am not the only person being addressed, as long as I'm part of a group, I understand what's going on. The moment someone addresses me … [Read more...]
The Dahu
Do you know the dahu? What a fascinating creature it is! A friend in Grenoble told me the story.The dahu looks like a deer, you know. A deer with a difference. It has two short legs and two long legs and lives in the mountains of France and Switzerland. The most intriguing thing about the dahu is that there's no system that defines which legs are short and which long. If its two right legs are short, it can go up a mountain only clockwise, not anticlockwise. You can imagine why. But the poor baby dahu that has alternate legs short won't survive. How will it? How can it run from danger?Rarely spotted and therefore much coveted, hunting the dahu was considered great sport in the 19th century. Capturing one of those rare beasts was a source of pride indeed! Dahu hunts are still conducted as outdoor activities, but on April 1, 1967, the Prefect of Haute-Savoie (France) … [Read more...]