We did our research before we went to Nagzira. We knew there were barely any tigers, but we also knew that many, many tourists saw a leopard in Nagzira. Surely, in eleven safaris, we would see one too.The first, second, third, fourth (in Koka) and fifth safaris were over. We were restless. Much as we enjoyed each safari, we wanted something more. Something to write home about. I love bison. I love monkeys, deer and birds. I love trees and sunshine. But I wanted more.In Nagzira, we often felt as if we were the only people in the forest. Unlike in Tadoba, we did not have constant communication with other guides about where the deer and langurs were calling out to one another. Often, I felt like we were lost souls wandering in the jungle: alone and without any sense of purpose.We passed a rare car going in the opposite direction - and found what we wanted.There he was. He emerged … [Read more...]
Starry, Starry Night
"There's nothing in new Nagzira." "Why don't you go to Koka?" "It's about 35 km from here." "Anyway, Nagzira is closed on Thursdays." "You could go to Koka on Thursday." "Maybe you'll see a sloth bear." "Or bison."We didn't agree that there was nothing in new Nagzira. There were fewer animals; we did not deny that. Yet, New Nagzira is the most beautiful forest I have seen. A green forest, with sunlight filtering in through the leaves. Birds everywhere, weaving their way around all kinds of trees. That does not count as 'nothing' in my book.We went to Koka anyway. Koka, an extension of the Nagzira forest, was a jungle that did not send ripples of delight through me. Forest, then main road. Forest, then village. Forest, then farmland. That does not fill my heart with gladness, the way dense, green, endless forests do.We were out of Koka by 5:20, even though the safari officially ends … [Read more...]
Workshop Coming Soon …
We are conducting a dance workshop (followed by a performance) soon ...I will share the details in the next few days! … [Read more...]
Women of Pride
Women of Pride unravelled a lot of questions before proceeding to respond to them, at least in part .There was so much about the devadasis that I did not know. Often in books I read, the history of these temple dancers was cheerfully summed up in a couple of sentences. The devadasis were nityasumangali - perpetually married. They were honoured and revered, but as time went on, they began to lose their patronage. They became associated with loose women, with no morals. Consequently, the entire system of being wedded to a God was abolished. Voilà, you have a history that begins in legends and ends in the 20th century.Who were these women? If they were married to gods, how did the lineage continue? If they were 'pure' and suddenly became corrupted by changing values, what constitutes purity and what constitutes corruption? What does it mean to outlaw a caste? Is it the same as … [Read more...]
Ram Navami
Three years ago, we performed on a beautiful stage as part of the Kannada Sangha celebrations in Pune. I can't quite believe that it was three years ago. Waiting to perform again! … [Read more...]
Arangetram
Often, invitation cards say that 'Arangetram' means 'ascending the stage'. Theoretically, all of us know that it is our first stage programme. Then why is it supposed to be so perfect? It is a beginning, an entrance.We often widen our eyes and raise our eyebrows at students who perform their Arangetram 'too early'. At age seven? How ridiculous! After learning dance for just two years? Tut tut. Nonsense.Where do these ideas come from?A book I'm reading tells me about many of the last devadasis. Kumbakonam Bhanumathi (who described dance as 'the sweeter unheard melody of our music system') did her Arangetram at age eleven. Pandanallur Jayalakshmi (whom Rukmini Devi allegedly tried unsuccessfully to imitate) completed hers when she was eight. Thanjavur Balasaraswathi (about whom Satyajit Ray made a film) was seven when she did hers.These are just examples. The … [Read more...]
Baby Krishna
Finally, here are a few photographs of the baby that everyone loved so much. It's a doll, yes, a doll, made by my French mother. It's not a real baby, no. We dressed it (her) as Baby Krishna for our performance in December - here are a few pictures! … [Read more...]
Seatbelt
During an exchange programme with a school in France, I noticed something I had never noticed before - rickshaws do not have doors!The first time I went in a rickshaw with my French correspondent, my eyes widened. How comfortable would she feel? Would she be afraid of a vehicle like this without doors? I glanced sideways at her.But like a true exchange student, she had come with an open mind. I saw her steel herself and deliberately remain silent with respect to this doorless wonder.I breathed a sigh of relief.Inside the rickshaw, she looked around, confused."What happened?" I asked.She looked at me in horror. "There are no seatbelts?" … [Read more...]
Independence Day
I have a dear friend who is half-French, half-Brazilian. She's been living in India for about five years now, and is a unique blend of several cultures. Here's what she said about the 15th of August, 2013.How I feel during Independence Day... So today is Independence Day and I went for Flag hoisting in my schoolThe attendance is compulsory and and I am a batch holder so there is no way I can miss. But even if i could I wouldn't! People might think I'd get extremely bored… half the speeches are in marathi, and the songs in hindi and the fact that I am not Indian by blood… But no, not at all... I love celebrating Independence Day. I love standing in line singing the Rashtra geet with everyone accompanied with the sound of drums, I love singing Vande Maataram and the satisfying fact that I know how to sing it and I know and love the meaning.I even love standing there int he middle of … [Read more...]
Performing in Renage
A very dear friend of my sister's organised a performance for us at a chapel in Renage. That was when we learned what effective publicity is.Michèle, who, I should mention, is in her seventies, did absolutely everything to make people come for our performance. She, helped by two friends, went (literally) from pillar to post putting up posters. She made signs to direct people to the chapel, and went and put them up on lamp-posts. When we drove towards the chapel, we saw our own faces everywhere. Every wall, every lamp-post, every pillar had a poster of our performance thanks to this formidable lady. She sat and folded the programmes for the performance - easily a hundred or more - insisting that she had nothing else to do, while we, the dancers, ought to rest. She went individually to each neighbour and convinced all her friends that they would not get the opportunity to watch a … [Read more...]