Bakul identified the turtles for us. I did not understand at all, not even enough to figure out for myself later. Himalayan Box Turtle? Perhaps. That was a name I discovered. But I know nothing about turtles. Can anyone help?Ducks - we saw hundreds of them. A beautiful orangish red duck was everywhere."Radisson duck," said Bakul. Or at least, it sounded like it. I came home and looked it up. 'Radisson duck' sounded believable enough. A Google search threw up images of Radisson ducks, though. Click there and you'll find out what I found out. The ducks we saw weren't Radisson ducks. That was certain.I looked at the larger picture, breathing deeply. I blinked. Everyone else was still looking at the turtles. I peered again, just to be sure. "Haathi!" I said, incredulous. "Haathi!"Those who have seen only captive elephants have no idea of the magic of wild elephants.And I could … [Read more...]
Rhinoceros Unicornis, Kaziranga
"Haan, rhino hai, udhar," said Bakul."Rhino?" I repeated. I had to have misheard. He could not be so calm. He could not tonelessly say 'rhino hai udhar' and leave it at that. In my head, though, I was saying, Rhino! Oo, rhino! Rhino! Where's the rhino? I want to see ...And there it was. Across a lake, eating away to glory. Rhinoceros unicornis. The real thing.Thoughts tumbled one after the other. Does it get cock-eyed looking around its horn? It really has a horn! It's so big! It's slaty-grey. It's ... it's a rhino!In my experience with forests so far, you don't just go away. You don't say, "Ah, there's a rhino," and peacefully drive off. I once watched a bear eat for almost half an hour. Because that's the way it is.Or so I thought."Chalein?" asked Bakul."Hmm?""Shall we move on?" someone translated for me, as if language was the problem.It was unheard of, unthinkable … [Read more...]
Mihimukh, Kaziranga
How different Kaziranga is from the other reserves I've visited! For one, you can get off the jeep in several places. In each zone, there's a watch tower which you can climb to look at the world around you. And the zones don't have complicated, circuitous routes. There's no decision to make about what path to take, where to go ...The gate to the reserve opens at 7:30, much later than at Tadoba. Expecting the cold of 6 o'clock safaris, I was armed with a beanie crocheted by a friend, in addition to my jacket, shawl and socks. I was set. Safaris in December are just something else.Birds. They just blew me over."What is that?" I asked. "Pulley-necked stork," was the answer I understood. Pulley? I wondered. Why pulley? Maybe bully? Who-ly? It was only in the evening that I had my Aha! moment. Woolly-necked stork. That's what it was!A huge stork, much bigger than my pulley-necked … [Read more...]
Back from Kaziranga
Elephant grass. Anything could be hiding there. (A rhino, perhaps?)Huge birds that made me think of pterodactyls. (Wasn't it enough that the word 'rhinoceros' tempted me to say 'rhino-saurus'?Hog deer. (My auto response, by the way, said I was away looking at/for rhinoceroses.)Swamp deer. (I wonder ... Why don't we use the second part of the one-horned rhinoceros's Latin name? Wouldn't that be exciting?)Cold, cold December days. I didn't know whether it was just the cold that was making me shiver, though.Many years ago, I had a pen pal from Assam. I remember him going to Kaziranga and writing to me about it. I had heard of it, but someone 'real' going there made it a place rather than a name. I lost contact with him years ago, ironically, when emails replaced letters. But finally, I went there, to Kaziranga. Four super safaris ... I still have rhinoceros-shaped bubbles of … [Read more...]
Nightjars
When I think of nightjars, I think of poetry. Was it in "Fern Hill" by Dylan Thomas? Or did I come across a nightjar in something by Keats or Byron? I think of nightjars and I have the sense of something I do not know. Something that I can only imagine.And then we saw them - both earlier this year in Nagzira, and this time in Tadoba.In the pre-dawn light, little, brown birds sat on the red road. The jeep's headlights fell on them as they sat there. We watched wide-eyed, as unblinking as the small, round birds with their black eyes. We held our breath. It was breathtaking, but hugely stressful.What if they don't fly? What if we run over them? What if they don't fly? What if they don't fly?They waited, unfailingly, until the last possible moment. My heart was in my throat as I watched them finally taking off. In the bright light from our jeep, they flew, their wingspans seemingly … [Read more...]
Leopard III
It was a cold, cold morning in new Nagzira. We had already won the appreciation of the guides there because we showed up diligently at 6 every morning, despite the fact that we saw 'nothing' (read: no tiger).New Nagzira, as many blogs and reviews would tell you, has barely any animals. A few bison, if you are lucky. A couple of deer (literally, two). A handful of monkeys.That morning, apart from the trees, we had seen nothing. Not a single deer, not a single monkey, not a single bison. We had heard a parakeet screeching - that was about as close we had got to seeing wildlife."Leopard?" asked our driver suddenly. "Leopard!" cried the guide.The leopard, startled at seeing tourists, darted into the trees. From between the bushes, it looked at us and growled. We watched, trembling. Cold, thrill, excitement - read 'trembling' in any way you like.The leopard realised that we were … [Read more...]
Leopard II
It was nearing the time to leave the forest, but we headed back towards the rest house in old Nagzira. The guide needed to use the washroom.There are lots of deer and monkeys near the rest house, so tourists invariably stand around taking photographs.On that day, there were people standing in their jeeps, looking fixedly in one direction."There's something there," I said, frowning. "Must be deer. People are always excited to see deer." "No ..." I insisted. "People don't stand to see deer."And that's when someone gestured to us frantically. "Leopard, leopard!"It was right there, at the rest house! And it was in the mood to hunt.A leopard's camouflage is excellent. It was in plain sight, but a little distance away. We could make out that it was there only when it moved. We watched. A herd of deer was grazing just beyond.And then a doe and fawn emerged.The leopard eyed … [Read more...]
Leopard
We did our research before we went to Nagzira. We knew there were barely any tigers, but we also knew that many, many tourists saw a leopard in Nagzira. Surely, in eleven safaris, we would see one too.The first, second, third, fourth (in Koka) and fifth safaris were over. We were restless. Much as we enjoyed each safari, we wanted something more. Something to write home about. I love bison. I love monkeys, deer and birds. I love trees and sunshine. But I wanted more.In Nagzira, we often felt as if we were the only people in the forest. Unlike in Tadoba, we did not have constant communication with other guides about where the deer and langurs were calling out to one another. Often, I felt like we were lost souls wandering in the jungle: alone and without any sense of purpose.We passed a rare car going in the opposite direction - and found what we wanted.There he was. He emerged … [Read more...]
Starry, Starry Night
"There's nothing in new Nagzira." "Why don't you go to Koka?" "It's about 35 km from here." "Anyway, Nagzira is closed on Thursdays." "You could go to Koka on Thursday." "Maybe you'll see a sloth bear." "Or bison."We didn't agree that there was nothing in new Nagzira. There were fewer animals; we did not deny that. Yet, New Nagzira is the most beautiful forest I have seen. A green forest, with sunlight filtering in through the leaves. Birds everywhere, weaving their way around all kinds of trees. That does not count as 'nothing' in my book.We went to Koka anyway. Koka, an extension of the Nagzira forest, was a jungle that did not send ripples of delight through me. Forest, then main road. Forest, then village. Forest, then farmland. That does not fill my heart with gladness, the way dense, green, endless forests do.We were out of Koka by 5:20, even though the safari officially ends … [Read more...]
Nagzira
Ten days away from the city. No internet. Phone connectivity for about an hour a day.Eleven safaris into the beautiful jungle.Three leopards.A leopard making a kill: whose side are you on? The leopard's or the fawn's?Wild dogs in the distance.A herd of bison. Flycatchers, thrushes, drongos, night-jars, parakeets, hoopoes.A ride in an open gypsy through the forest at night.Starry skies that I remember from my childhood.Nagzira. … [Read more...]